Monday, December 14, 2015

Final Report

Final Report: Floating Dome Biodigester
Abstract
        A biodigester is a device that anaerobically converts animal waste to methane and fertilizer; they are lauded for their environmentally sustainable approach to energy production and the efficient reuse of waste materials. Grupo Fenix is a community partner in Nicaragua that requested our assistance in improving their biodigester design. To approach this project we first consulted with Grupo Fenix as to their desired design specifications; after receiving their feedback, we committed to keeping this design cheap, simple, and durable, and able to be transported. A final specification that Grupo Fenix requested was efficient production of methane gas and fertilizer, but because we knew we would not be able to truly test this design we did not ultimately commit to meeting this exact specification. We explored the various designs for biodigesters––the plastic bag model vs. the floating dome model––and ultimately determined the floating dome would best meet the design specifications of Grupo Fenix.
Background
Grupo Fenix
Grupo Fenix is working in developing communities to create a sustainable source of clean energy. Currently, the community members use wood-burning stoves to cook 3 times a day. While wood may be an effective source of energy, it can have a negative effect on people’s health and the environment. Furthermore, users must maintain a constant supply of wood either by buying it, or through physical labor. Grupo Fenix is looking to supply the community with an alternative energy source, and their solution may come in the form of biodigesters.
What is a biodigester?
Biodigesters are products that use manure and biomass to create methane gas and compost. When mixed with water, raw, organic materials  undergo anaerobic digestion and produce methane gas, carbon dioxide, and nitrogen gas. These products are completely harmless to humans, and can be used just like any other cooking fuel. The “neutralized” solid waste that is leftover can be used as a fertilizer for crops.


There are clear advantages to using biogas rather than other fuels. Biogas is inexpensive; once the product is built or bought, it uses waste products at no extra cost to those surrounded by livestock. Also, it is better for the environment in that it doesn’t require a constant supply of natural resources. Just 1 cubic meter of biogas can either power a 60 Watt lightbulb for 6 hours, provide fuel to cook 3 meals, or run a 1 horsepower engine for 2 hours. One of the major disadvantages, and subsequent challenges for us and Grupo Fenix, is to combat the “taboo” of using gas produced from manure and biomass for cooking.


Design Options and Decision Process
There are basically 3 models of biodigesters currently in production. The most expensive one is the fixed dome digester model. The fixed dome model involves an underground chamber with inlet and outlet pipes. This kind of digester is sturdy and long-lasting, but too expensive to implement on a large scale.






In contrast, the most inexpensive model of biodigesters is the plastic bag model. These digesters involve a plastic bag inflating while filling up with biogas, and are low cost along with easy to install. However, there is a much greater chance of these products malfunctioning, breaking, or leaking. We have also decided against implementing this in the community because among people who are already hesitant to use the biodigesting method, we want to introduce a more durable and reliable product.
Screen Shot 2015-12-01 at 3.27.05 PM.png



Therefore, we chose to develop the third type of biodigester, known as the floating dome model. The floating dome digester uses 2 chambers, with a lower one to hold materials and an upper one to collect gas. Floating dome digesters are more durable than the plastic bag model, and can even be made from leftover materials, including buckets, oil drums, trash cans, or other already existing products.

Screen Shot 2015-12-01 at 3.53.39 PM.png





Our Design: The Floating Dome
Materials
The final list of materials came down to:
-2 5-gallon (19-litre) buckets with lids
-1 gas faucet
-1 water faucet
-2 brass fittings
-2 8-32 screws and accompanying nuts
-1 PVC pipe with cap --> measurement should be 3.5" across outer diameter; 19" (~50cm)
-1 Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam, Tube, 7/16" OD, 1/4" ID, (Recommended: 3' or 1 metre long)


Tools:
-Permanent marker
-Measuring tape or ruler
-Drill
-Saw (Jigsaw)
-Caulking glue (or glue of equivalent strength; if tube of 10.5 oz, less than 1/4 tube will be used)


We chose the cheapest materials we could find to try and keep the cost down. We used plastic buckets as the 2 chambers because they were durable, inexpensive, and easy to work with. They are also a good size for a private, single family digester. The buckets came with good quality locking lids as well, so we didn’t have to worry about leaking issues. We also needed durable faucets, so we opted for brass pieces that we could easily attach to the plastic. This product had to be airtight, so we used foam and caulking glue to ensure that there were no leaks.


Design
For the actual construction of our product, we need to cut the buckets to a specific size, hence the necessity of the plastic material. We only needed cutting tools for trimming the 2 buckets and for cutting a hole in the lid. Aside from that, we need to drill a total of 4 holes, Everything else came down to gluing and assembling by hand. We didn’t want to create a product that was impossible to replicate outside of our engineering lab. The actual construction instructions can be found in the appendix.


Essentially the floating dome digester is comprised of 1 5-gallon bucket sitting upright, but with its bottom cut off, inside the 2nd 5-gallon bucket, which sits upside down and with its bottom cut off. A PVC pipe sits several inches above the top bucket and runs through two the middle of the bottom bucket, and this pipe is where any material can be inserted. The PVC pipe has a cap to ensure everything remains airtight, and the buckets are arranged tightly enough that the whole digester is airtight. This system operates on a 1:1 ratio of water:material, so water should be poured in to fill up about half of the bottom bucket. As material is inserted down the PVC pipe the water will help the material be digested, and as methane gas is released it will be sent into the gas chamber (the top bucket). The location of the PVC pipe ensures that the gas chamber remains airtight.


Prototype Processes
Our major objectives in building our prototype included making the design able to be used for individual homes, keeping the cost low, and most importantly developing a product that wouldn’t fail. We really wanted to make something that would make people excited about biogas, not disgusted by using waste. 


Our first prototype involved two upside-down buckets, with the top bucket meant for collecting gas fitting over the lower one. We also had a tray attached to the bottom bucket meant to collect the solid waste. We were hoping the lid on the bottom bucket would easily come off so we could remove the tray and clean out the digester. However, this design had some flaws. First of all, there were some leakage issues where we didn’t have enough caulking glue. Also, we realized that the top bucket should fit inside the bottom bucket, in order to prevent gas from escaping. Finally, the the other major issue the bottom. The lid was very difficult to remove, and we realized that we could just separate the buckets to clean out the digester instead of bothering with the tray.


For our second prototype, we major some slight, but significant adjustments.IMG_9605.jpg


1) We flipped the top bucket so that it rests inside the lower one, to better ensure the gas is sealed inside the biodigester and won't escape.


2) We designed the two buckets to be taken apart easily, but they fit together securely enough to not separated unintentionally. This allows the top bucket to rise when fill with methane gas, giving a visual indicator when methane is ready to be released. Also, it allows us to easily empty out and clean the bottom after most of the water has been drained.


3) We also changed the faucet we were using for gas to one which will fit with a propane connection. both faucets are reinforced with extra caulking, as the design is dependent on there being no water or gas leaks.


Instructions for Use
IMG_9605.jpg


On the outside of each bucket is a faucet; one is to release water and the other is to release gas. When the bucket becomes full, a user would attach their gas tank to the faucet to release any methane that has been produced. Then, the user would get ride of any excess water by releasing the water faucet. At this point the user would be able to separate the top and bottom buckets (by simply pulling the top bucket off); the bottom bucket holds the remaining material and can be used to transport the compost to a field––or dumped into a better bucket for carrying, if one is available. The ability to separate the buckets also allows the user to clean each bucket.


We do not yet have an idea as for how often the buckets would need to be cleaned, or how quickly this design will process material and produce gas, but we imagine every few days to one week would be the expected time. The production efficiency will, of course, depend on how much material is inserted, climate, etc. We have yet to perform a test run on our 2nd prototype (we're waiting for the parts for the gas faucet to arrive), but made some design improvements after a test run on our 1st prototype.


Conclusion
In building our design we most kept in mind the design specifications of affordability, durability and simplicity of design; we feel that our final prototype maintains these specifications. If being built in the U.S., the production cost of this particular design range is between $30-$40, but we imagine the cost of products in Nicaragua will be less. We are told that 5-gallon buckets (or barrel drums, if this idea is scaled up) are generally available, which would cut out this cost, and we imagine that other parts are available for purchase in markets or appliance/hardware stores. We hope that the overall cost is cheaper than the cost of production in the U.S.; either way, we are satisfied that this version is cheaper than other models that we have examined.


Because we used 5-gallon buckets we are confident that this model is more durable than the plastic bag biodigester models that have been used in the past in the Grupo Fenix community. The plastic of the buckets is thick and will not be eroded due to weather; additionally we are not concerned that any animal will be able to bite its way into the material (as was the concern with the plastic bag models). We suggest that users ensure that the biodigester be placed on a flat, hard surface to ensure that it is not knocked over, but otherwise we feel we have met the design specification of durability.


Finally, we believe this design is fairly simple and that we have met this specification. Classmates seemed to understand how to use the biodigester, and Lyndsay Chapman’s reaction was positive when we presented to her. We are unsure of the amount of time a user will have to wait for gas to be produced, or material to be fully decomposed, and so do feel obliged to note this aspect of simplicity that may not be met. However, we imagine the user will get a better sense once it is put to the test.
Design Shortfalls
Due to difficulty of obtaining animal feces, as well as general concern for violating health code within the classroom setting, we were unfortunately unable to truly test our prototype with the actual material with which this device will be used. We are confident in this design’s ability to avoid leaks; to effectively hold waste; to drain water; and to transport a certain amount of material. Nonetheless, we would be remiss to mention our inability to truly test it, and we would be foolish to be fully confident that this prototype will effectively and efficiently produce methane gas and compost material into fertilizer. We are hopeful that the trip to Nicaragua will prove fruitful and that this device will run effectively, but we are prepared to receive feedback that certain parts need to be reworked or improved.


Community Reception
We have not yet received the full reaction of Grupo Fenix, but Lyndsay Chapman’s reaction during our class presentation was generally positive and appreciative. She had several questions about the production efficiency––which, as aforementioned, we could not confidently answer––but our sense was that she understood the way to operate the system. We really wanted to create a prototype that was user friendly and simple, so we were satisfied that this was her reaction to our final prototype. We look forward to the reaction by Grupo Fenix in January; additionally, because this design was meant primarily for the restaurant of the organization, which is run by foreign volunteers, we will be interested to know if the reaction of the initial foreign recipients is more or less positive than the reaction of Nicaraguan families. Grupo Fenix mentioned that they hope, if it works for volunteers in their restaurant, that Nicaraguan families will choose to use this model on a greater scale. We will be interested to check back in several months or years to see if the floating dome model is scaled up for more extensive use, if a different prototype is developed, or if the idea is abandoned altogether.
Appendix: Instruction Manual for Construction
Instructions:
  1. Go from bottom of first bucket and draw line 2" (~5 cm) up from the end around the entire width of the bucket
  2. Repeat above step, but use second bucket and draw line 3 3/4" (~9.5 cm) around width of bucket
  3. Using pliers (or other tool), remove handles from bucket
  4. Pick a point on the line of each bucket and drill a hole big enough for blade of jigsaw to enter
  5. Use jigsaw to cut along line of each bucket; dispose of end pieces.
6) Flip first bucket upside down (keeping lid attached) and let it sit on table. With second bucket, take lid off and keep bucket upright. Place second bucket inside of first bucket; this should be a tight arrangement, but will prevent any gas or water leakages.


7) On second lid, find center point and draw circle with diameter 3 3/4" (~9.5 cm)


8) Use drill to make a hole on one point of circle on lid; use jigsaw to cut out circle












9) Stick PVC pipe through this circle; should be wide enough to push PVC pipe through and hold it in place.
10) Take a 13 1/2" (~34 cm) measurement of foam tube and use glue to affix foam tube to PVC pipe at approximately 4" from the top of PVC pipe. When PVC pipe is sitting inside the circle of the top bucket lid, this foam should touch the bucket lid, leaving 4" of PVC pipe above lid and 15" of PVC pipe below lid. 


11) Glue the foam to the lid and make the seal airtight with caulking glue. Use a generous amount and leave overnight to dry.
12) To attach the water valve (blue), first drill a 1" diameter hole in the second (bottom) bucket, 5.5" up from the bottom. Then drill 2 small .2" diameter holes on either side of the larger. The smaller holes should line up with the gaps on the sides of the valve itself
.


Stick the threaded part of the valve into the hole, and screw on the brass fitting from the inside. Thread two 8/32" screws through the smaller holes, and secure them with two 8/32 nuts on the inside. Seal the valve in place using a generous amount of caulking, both on the inside of the bucket and on the outside around the water valve. This needs to be airtight and leakproof.


13) To attach the gas valve (red), drill a .65" diameter hole in the top bucket 5.25" down from the lid. Insert the longer end of the valve into the hole, and attach the thin fitting from the inside of the bucket. Secure with caulking, sealing any gaps on the outside and the inside.



Tuesday, November 24, 2015

Modifications- Final Prototype

For our second prototype, we major some slight, but significant adjustments.

1) We flipped the top bucket so that it rests inside the lower one, to better ensure the gas is sealed inside the biodigester and won't escape.


2) We designed the two buckets to be taken apart easily, but they fit together securely enough to not separated unintentionally. This allows the top bucket to rise when fill with methane gas, giving a visual indicator when methane is ready to be released. Also, it allows us to easily empty out and clean the bottom after most of the water has been drained.

3) We also changed the faucet we were using for gas to one which will fit with a propane connection. both faucets are reinforced with extra caulking, as the design is dependent on there being no water or gas leaks.



Saturday, November 21, 2015

2nd Test Run

Today we did our 2nd test run of our 2nd prototype using play dough as a substitute for manure (or other compostable materials that would be used). This second run through we were hoping to make sure that all leaks were fixed, that we could easily put a substance similar to what would actually be used (play dough, as opposed to dirt/leaves/rocks which we used on our 1st run-through) down the PVC pipe and into the biodigester. We also wanted to ensure that nothing clogged up the faucet (success!) and that we could let as much water out as possible.

After pouring water in (about 3/4 the way up the bottom bucket) we dropped in all the play dough and mixed it up.


We were happy to see that it was still easy to mix with our mixing stick (a normal stick that we deemed the mixing stick), and we let it all sit for a few minutes before turning the faucet to let the water come out.
Once we got out as much water as possible, we took the top bucket off and were satisfied with the manure-like mess that had accumulated at the bottom. We were able to transport the bottom bucket of stuff over to a woodsy area and dump it out (though likely anyone using this would dump it into another bucket or wheelbarrow).

We still have 2 really minor leaks, which we'll be able to fix with some additional caulking, but other than that we are pretty satisfied with our 2nd prototype and will be ready to present on Tuesday. Unfortunately we will not be able to test the gas faucet, as we do not have access to the proper materials that would allow for actual biodigestion to occur (nor is it the right climate/temperature for these processes to occur quickly), but we hope that in a better climate and with the right material enough methane will be produced to serve the hopes of Grupo Fenix.



Friday, November 20, 2015

Instructions


Bucket instructions:
  1. Go from bottom of first bucket and draw line 2" (~5 cm) up from the end around the entire width of the bucket
  2. Repeat above step, but use second bucket and draw line 3 3/4" (~9.5 cm) around width of bucket
  3. Using pliers (or other tool), remove handles from bucket
  4. Pick a point on the line of each bucket and drill a hole big enough for blade of jigsaw to enter
  5. Use jigsaw to cut along line of each bucket; dispose of end pieces. 
  6. Flip first bucket upside down (keeping lid attached) and let it sit on table. With second bucket, take lid off and keep bucket upright. Place second bucket inside of first bucket; this should be a tight arrangement, but will prevent any gas or water leakages.
  7. On second lid, find center point and draw circle with diameter 3 3/4" (~9.5 cm) 
  8. Use drill to make a hole on one point of circle on lid; use jigsaw to cut out circle
  9. Stick PVC pipe through this circle; should be wide enough to push PVC pipe through and hold it in place
  10. Take a 13 1/2" (~34 cm) measurement of foam tube and use glue to affix foam tube to PVC pipe at approximately 4" from the top of PVC pipe. When PVC pipe is sitting inside the circle of the top bucket lid, this foam should touch the bucket lid, leaving 4" of PVC pipe above lid and 15" of PVC pipe below lid. 
  11. Glue the foam to the lid and make the seal airtight with caulking glue. Use a generous amount and leave overnight to dry.
12. To attach the water valve (blue), first drill a 1" diameter hole in the second (bottom) bucket, 5.5" up from the bottom. Then drill 2 small .2" diameter holes on either side of the larger. The smaller holes should line up with the gaps on the sides of the valve itself.
Stick the threaded part of the valve into the hole, and screw on the brass fitting from the inside. Thread two 8/32" screws through the smaller holes, and secure them with two 8/32 nuts on the inside. Seal the valve in place using a generous amount of caulking, both on the inside of the bucket and on the outside around the water valve. This needs to be airtight and leakproof.

13. To attach the gas valve (red), drill a .65" diameter hole in the top bucket 5.25" down from the lid. Insert the longer end of the valve into the hole, and attach the thin fitting from the inside of the bucket. Secure with caulking, sealing any gaps on the outside and the inside.




Materials

Materials needed:
2 5-gallon (19-litre) buckets with lids
1 gas faucet (check with Amy for size/type/pieces)
1 water faucet (check with Amy for size/type/pieces)
2 brass fittings (check with Amy for size/type/pieces)
2 8-32 screws and accompanying nuts
1 PVC pipe with cap --> measurement should be 3.5" across outer diameter; 19" (~50cm)
1 Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam, Tube, 7/16" OD, 1/4" ID, (Recommended: 3' or 1 metre long)
Permanent marker
Measuring tape or ruler
Drill (ask Larry what type and what size drill bit)
Saw (Jigsaw)
Caulking glue (or glue of equivalent strength; if tube of 10.5 oz, less than 1/4 tube will be used)

McMaster-Carr numbers:
4339T1 , quantity 1 (rubber hose for sealing)
2426K24, quantity 1 (pvc pipe)
9102K223, quantity 1 (pipe cap)

Tuesday, November 10, 2015

Timeline & Pride/Pain Points

Timeline:
  • November 24th = deadline for almost final prototype!
  • BY November 13th, finalize all materials that we want for our project and for the Nicaragua group to make it; also have buckets ready for use
  • Be ready for test run by the end of Tuesday the 17th (so that we can do test run on the 20th and make minor modifications)
  • Be totally done by end of class on the 20th
  • Make time for blog (at least 15-20 minutes at the end of every class)
  • Email Lyndsay by Friday (the 13th) with update on overall status of project


Pride/Pain Points (as of November 10, 2015)
  • Pride: Pretty much functioned the way we expected (need to make modifications, but these were modifications we anticipated having to make for prototype #2)
  • Pride: Low-cost! Low-time commitment!
  • Pain: Faucet leaking - faucet was small (as in, didn't allow much water flow), we need to figure out a better way to attach it to the bucket because the little holes where the screws went caused some leaks
  • Pain: Bottom of bucket is hard to take off (we think this will be a persistent issue and something we don't want to change)

Notes from test run with prototype #1

Today during class we decided to do a test run with our first prototype! Because we presented to the class the other day, we had already anticipated some of the design flaws that we ended up seeing in our test run, but we wanted to make sure that changes made for our second prototype were as informed as possible. Below are notes, observations and pictures from this test run:
 
- 3/4 bucket of water, 1/2 bucket of materials (ideally 1:1, but due to design flaws this is what we had to use)
- materials were: dirt, leaves, dry grass, water
- used the stick to stir (through the PVC pipe)

Observations:
  • removed the top bucket to pour water in -- ideally should only be removed when cleaning and starting fresh; PVC pipe should be used for adding materials
  • PVC pipe too long --> made it hard to stir and hard to put in more materials
  • should firmly attach lining of the inner tray and should also be bigger (resulted in leaks when trying to empty out)
  • faucet needs to be moved lower (in general, draining of water worked but faucet was too high which meant that we had to add a LOT more water - ideally faucet lower so that all water can drain w/o having to be tipped) ... took a long time for water to drain
  • faucet needs to be air-tight/not leak --> big leaks out the holes of the faucet (where the screws are)
  • top bucket should be moved higher to allow for more material to be added
  • need for constant stirring (we suggest using a stick from the great outdoors rather than creating one from artificial materials)
  • weren't able to make use of the gas faucet so can't comment on it
  • semi-difficult to remove bottom bucket but is a design flaw we are willing to accept




In-Class Design Presentation

Biodigester Feedback:
Concerns-
- access to bottom
- leakage --> sealing top chamber
- having top chamber inside bottom [water seal?]
- funnel at top
- color? orange is +++! [Park Spark! idea]
- stick for turning/mixing

For next prototype-
- consider original model w/water seal (inside gas chamber)
- better faucet for gas --> research (?)
- rethink bottom --> easier to remove
- labels --> max. fill line, max. waste line --> see-thru? kinda?
- funnel @ top (could help direct in the materials) 

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Starting out

Today we were able to meet with Libby Hsu from the MIT D-Lab. She presented a lot of great information on biodigesters for our project.

Initially, we were planning on working with the plastic bag biodigester model in order to develop a cheap, disposable, and temporary solution for Grupo Fenix. After hearing the needs of the community and after talking with Libby, we decided that switching our focus to a more durable but still inexpensive "floating dome model."



At the end of the class, we came up with some new objectives and goals for our project.

Overall Goal→ Make biodigester desirable
  • build working, durable model for community that proves its worth
  • go from public use to private use
  • prove that with proper safeguards, biodigesters are attractive alternative

Objectives→ Making (floating dome) biodigesters usable, accessible
  • find way to empty out neutralized waste
  • ease transport of manure to biodigester
    • incorporate operation/maintenance into daily activities
  • control smell→ adequate sealing and covering technology
  • ease transition from old tech to new
    • educational manuel?
    • propane→ methane

TO DO
  • Make sketch model
  • Make prototype
  • Email/Research:
  • Park Spark
  • Credible source on health hazards of meat-eating animals
  • worms?? (probably not)

Questions for Park Spark:

  • How much waste do people put in?
  • How much power/energy do you generate?
  • What do you do with the leftovers?